There are only a few places throughout the world, I think, that have the ability to capture your heart, mind, and soul the very instant you set foot in them. For me, the colonial town of Antigua, in Guatemala, is one of those places.
Nestled snugly in the valley between three active volcanoes this former colonial capital is among the oldest and most beautiful cities in the Americas. Its cobblestone streets, meticulously-manicured central park, and seventeenth-century ruins charm you the instant you enter the city. In addition to being a much more friendly and cozy place to hang out than Guatemala City, Antigua is one of the most popular places in Central America to learn Spanish, and as a result the population is an eclectic spattering of students, travellers, and expats. After only a short time here one of my new favourite past-times is frequenting the many cafes around the central plaza where people-watching and fine Guatemalan coffee make the hours float by before its time to hit the restaurants and nightclubs.
Tourist attractions and drinking coffee are great ways to pass the time but after a couple of days the adventure itch returned. To satisfy this itch I signed up with a group of young travellers to climb Volcan Acatenango, one of Guatemala’s highest peaks. This is one of the three volcanoes that surround Antigua and it is also the highest, towering at 13000 feet above the city.
I thought climbing this mountain would be the main adventure for the weekend but my encounter with a mugger the morning of the climb takes the cake. It was really early Saturday morning, about 5am or so, when I was rushing through the quiet streets of Antigua to meet up with the climbing group. I was already late and very excited for the trip. As I approached the town square a small, drunken Guatemalan man stumbled out of a doorway wielding a small knife. He stood at five-foot nothing and weighed around 120 pounds soaking wet. I could smell the booze on him from a few meters away. He stood in front of me on the street and barred me from passing. As I approached closer to try and maneuver around him he grabbed my arm and demanded I give me money. I kept my wits about me and remembered all those encounters with violent drunk people from years of bartending in a blue-collar bar back home. When I refused to surrender my wallet this little man thought he could muscle it from me. He swung his knife at me in a move that looked like it was in slow motion because of his inebriated state. The knife wasn’t going to come anywhere near me with his aim. I waited for his arm to pass his midline then wound up and unloaded a roundhouse right which connected to the side of the man’s face and sent him stumbling back into the doorway from which he came. I then continued on my way to meet the group and climb the volcano.
Acatenango stands at 3976 meters, or 13000 plus feet, above sea level. The plan was to hike to the base of the volcanic cone and camp before trying for the summit the next morning to catch the sunrise and great views. On the trail up to the base of the summit we hiked through many different geographic zones including a wonderful cloud forest before the volcanic cone started. Unfortunately the weather did not cooperate with us when he reached the base of the summit. We were stuck in a powerful wind storm with rain and freezing temperatures over night. In the morning the weather had not let up so the group leader decided against a bid for the top. After having come that far and put in that much work I was determined to summit despite the weather. Fortunately, I was able to convince a Kiwi on the trip plus the assistant guide to go with me. It was an arduous ordeal with high winds, freezing temperatures, and some ice but it was well worth it when we summitted and stood on top of Guatemala at 3976 m.
It was a great week in Guatemala for me. The combination of sightseeing in Antigua and climbing one of its volcanoes was a perfect introduction to what this great country has to offer. The lucky escape from my first real dangerous situation while traveling only heightened my experience here and made me a little more street savvy.
I haven’t been able to do any paddling yet due to water levels and transport issues. I was supposed to go this weekend but my plans have changed all of a sudden. I met an American kayaker who lives down here and he invited me to go on a paddling expedition to Chiapas, Mexico, for a week. So tomorrow I’m heading back to Mexico. This is the best part about traveling without a set schedule: you’re free to follow whatever path is presented to you at any time.
